Sensory Adaptation

I’ve been in Thailand for 3 months. I’m almost done, and will be coming home in 24 months for those that are asking. Let me update you on the past few months:

HERE IS WHERE I LIVE NOW:

Thai culture, incredibly rich, has me adapting in all sorts of ways. When encountering someone elder, you wai. That is: elbows in, hands in a prayer position just below your chin, hands vertical, and… slight bow! Good job, now you can wai your way across Thailand when you visit! It is a sign of utmost respect and is used as a formal greeting. The rice-dominated cuisine has surprisingly kept me in anticipation. The numerous rice vectors are almost impressive. Want to eat rat? The rats eat rice. Want fish? The fish were caught with rice bait. Even ice cream has sticky rice as a topping. Each day brings plates of morning glory, fried fish, steamed fish, flat fried omelets, bowls of various spices, and servings of unknown meat. If I were more of an epicurean, I'd be on my toes but at this point I am constantly praying for meals sans intestine. I thought I would be a vegetarian here but unfortunately vegetarians are not customary to rural Thailand. I eat the occasional pescatarian meal, and will eat chicken if someone made it not knowing that I only eat seafood. It is rude to point feet at anyone, especially monks or the royal family. Never put a helmet on the ground (learned that the hard way) due to the traditional head-foot concept. The head is the highest and most sacred part of the body while the feet are the lowest and dirtiest. This goes as far as not hanging pants on the same laundry line as shirts. Pants and shirts cannot be washed together either. Clothing should be put on head first if possible. Books should not be placed on the ground (as they are sources of intellect). I mess up often and receive my daily share of hairy eyeballs.

The most challenging part of living in Thailand is communication. I have the vocabulary and language capacity of a kindergartener, but crave stimulating conversation. I want to be fluent immediately! Telling my Thai mom that I will be home from work at 6, or that I don’t like fruit, or asking where I can procure some Oreos proves to be a constant battle. The miscommunication has led me into an array of comical situations and my Thai grandma thinks everything I say (or butcher) is hilarious. For example, chang in a rising tone means "elephant" but chang in a falling tone means mechanic. One night, I wore a swimsuit to what turned out to be a concert with the Mayor because I was POSITIVE they said we'd be swimming. I have wonderful conversations with my 4 year old sister because we carry the same vocabulary and she doesn't throw in complex sentence structure or challenging phrases like the adults do. In English, tone expresses emotion and I'm finding it difficult to prevent my feelings from misconstruing my communication. To add to the chaos, I accidentally speak Spanish or Kannada when caught off guard. It's lucky this is my greatest challenge considering life in a rice paddy! My current favorite phrases include mai-kao-jai (I don't understand), Mai-ru (I don't know), and chooay-dooay (help me).

Poonam Benakatti is currently serving with the Peace Corps in Thailand. She is passionate about development, the human experience, and sticky rice.